Delmonico’s

One of the reasons I love New York City so much is the food! (It might even be why I moved here 25 years ago!) What most of us don’t realize is that dining out in NYC wasn’t what it is today.

Photo: NYPL DIgital Archives

Most wealthy New Yorkers of the early 1800’s dined and entertained in their extravagant homes. Restaurants were reserved for the lower classes and served mediocre food. Italian-Swiss immigrants, Giovanni (John) and Pietro (Peter) Delmonico wanted to change that. Their first restaurant opened in 1827 on William Street and was a small operation serving pastries, coffee and fine wines one might get in the cafes of Paris at the time. They soon expanded next door and started serving French and Italian cuisine and started to gain some notoriety even amongst the wealthy. 

A depiction of the Great Fire of 1834 - NYPL Digital Archives

Delmonico's in 1880. - Photo: NYPL Digital Archives

The Great Fire of 1835 destroyed their first restaurant along with 17 city blocks, causing $20 million in damages ($566 Million today)! Brothers John and Peter then purchased an odd triangular plot of land on Beaver and William Street and constructed an ornate four story building. Nicknamed ‘The Citadel’ Delmonico's reopened in 1837 and was the most opulent restaurant New York City had ever seen, catering to the New York's elite class. Over time Delmonico’s chef (Charles Ranhofer) would create many dishes that are part todays culinary vernacular like Delmonico Steak, Lobster Newberg, Baked Alaska and a brunch staple... Eggs Benedict.

The second version (today's) Delmonico's in 1940. Note the original columns flanking the front door - Photo: NYPL Digital Archive

Delmonico’s had become so popular that they opened 6 other locations throughout New York City! Since they were doing so well and the original location could use some more space, the current owner and grand nephew of the original brothers, razed the building and built a new, grander structure. Designed in the Renaissance Revival style, they were even able to salvage the original Pompeian pillars from their first building. Before entering the restaurant, patrons would touch the columns for good luck.

Photo: NYPL Digital Archive

In 1917 ownership changed hands a few times within the family and financial struggles seeped in they sold the building to The American Merchant Marine Insurance Company.

Then, a decade later, restaurateur named Oscar Tucci bought the building in 1927 and opened up ‘Oscar’s Delmonico’ as a kind of revival. Over time he dropped ‘Oscar’s’ from the name and adapted most of the original Delmonico’s menu, running a very successful restaurant up until the mid 1980’s. At one time Delmonico’s was the largest restaurant in the world!  

Photo: Getty Images

Recently, Delmonico’s reopened to much fanfare. Its interior was renovated and has an updated modern vibe and diners will be happy to note they still have some of the classic Delmonico namesake items on the menu. 

Pro Tip: For a fun historical night out, hit Fraunces Tavern down the street for drinks followed by dinner at Delmonico's! 

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